Here we are, at the beginning of a journey. Well, at the beginning of several new journeys for me! Apparently, I'm the kind of person who copes with major life change by piling on more new projects and commitments. Because moving away from my husband, dog, garden, and community to attend graduate school as a *somewhat* non-traditional student while living in a small apartment with two perfect strangers felt rather underachieving, I have also decided to cook my way through The New Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison, and to blog about it. We wouldn't want life to start getting boring, after all. It was actually my lovely husband, Paul, who gifted me the book several weeks ago for my birthday. He likely calculated that he would only have to tolerate 5 weeks of enthusiastic vegetarian cooking before I would be safely off to school, out of the kitchen, and he would be free to resume eating meat at least three times a day. His calculations were correct, but I am making the most of what little time I have. Not only has my carnivorous husband been forced into a vegetarian existence, but every friend and neighbor who has joined us for dinner has been treated to a meatless meal as well. No one has complained. Well, Paul may have complained once or twice.
I love to cook. Five years ago, when Paul and I were first married, I barely knew how to boil water. However, I developed a passion for cooking almost instantly, and my skills in the kitchen have evolved substantially. I have most of the basic principles and techniques of cooking under my belt, but now I want to take my culinary skills to the next level. I want to be able to cook intuitively. I want to be able to take a bunch of ingredients and with no recipe, turn them into something spectacular. I want to understand how flavor works. That is why I have decided to cook a book. (That phrase makes me imagine dicing up a hardbound book and gently stirring it in to a pot of boiling water. ...Am I the only one who gets that thought picture?)
Anywho, many well known chefs, including Alice Waters, Jaques Pepin, and Mark Bittman, claim that cooking a book was vital to their culinary development. I have chosen the New Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone because it is one of the current definitive works on cooking vegetables. Deborah Madison cooked at Chez Panisse early in her career, which means she is well qualified to write about cooking seasonally, simply, and flavorfully. Here is a fact: if you want flavor, you want vegetables. Meat is satisfying and savory, but it doesn't bring a whole lot to the table in terms of flavor. Would you care to eat a plain steamed chicken breast, seasoned with nothing but a little salt? I wouldn't. Would you care to eat some plain steamed fresh broccoli, seasoned with nothing but a little salt? Sign me up! I want to learn about flavors, which means I want to learn about herbs and spices, fruits and vegetables. Adding meat is secondary.
My plan is to cook every recipe in Deborah Madison's revised tome. And believe me, it is a tome. I haven't finished counting the recipes yet, but I'll let you know when I do. Right now I've counted up to 608, and I'm only on page 271 out of 649. The recipes themselves are not numbered, and different people could conceivably count them differently. Beneath many of her recipes, Ms Madison has included different variations on the same theme. Some of these variations depart significantly from the original dish, enough to make them two truly separate recipes. Other variations only differ by one ingredient. I have counted each variation as a separate recipe. The ones that are dramatically different deserve to be tried and tested individually. The recipes that suggest only the addition of a little cheese here or an avocado there are still counted separately, but I will probably make them simultaneously. We'll see how it goes. The numbering is subjective, but there is a method to my madness. One way or another, I will cook through this entire book. Hopefully, the process will be informative, and a lot of fun!
I would love it if you would join me. I will post on here each time I complete a meal that used one or more of Deborah Madison's recipes. If you feel so inspired, you can make the meal yourself and tell me about it! However, I will not be posting any recipes from "The New Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone (NVCE)" here. If I post a recipe it will be my own or will be borrowed from another source. If you want to cook along, please buy this treasure trove of cooking wisdom for yourself. You'll be glad you did.
And now, for the starting meal!
I made this yesterday while the sky was falling. The plan had been to pick the ingredient for this meal out of my garden right before I used them. That was a wonderful plan... until a line of severe storms blew through right as it was time to make lunch. Because I had no back up plan to speak of, I still picked my ingredients out of the garden, but I got very wet doing it...
I made three recipes out of NVCE for this meal:
Roasted Beets, Apples, and Onions with Cider Vinegar (pg 305),
Braised Carrots (pg 315), and
Mustard Butter (pg 46).
The roasted beets were my choice for the main course. The truth is, we are swimming in beets. This is my first year gardening, and I sowed my seeds under the basic assumption that 90% of my crop was doomed to certain failure. Imagine my surprise when almost every plant survived! (At least, so far...) I did not loose a single beet, which means we are swimming in beets. We have had beet sandwiches, pickled beets, beet hamburgers, beet jelly, and beet cake. I could almost swear we are turning a shade of magenta. I've given bags of beets to my friends, and used them to barter for veggies that have not flourished so well in my beginner's garden. And still we are overrun with beets. Deborah Madison's recipe calls for four beets. I was sold.
So I steamed my beets, and diced up all the fruits and veggies.
Then added the goodies.
And stuck it in the oven, dotted with plenty of butter, of course! This dish does not make perfect sense for the middle of July, due to the long baking time. However, for a coolish rainy day when one is swimming in beets, it works just fine...
The dish turned out very well! The flavors melded together wonderfully, and as Deborah Madison promised, the dish was truly better than the sum of its parts.
This recipe made quite a lot of food. I chilled the extras and brought them to a potluck lunch the next day. No one suspected they were eating leftovers! I think I liked the chilled dish even better. Of course my preference could be seasonal; it is July after all.
The braised carrots were a lovely side to the beets. I risk being thrown out of the crunchy, hippy, gardening community for admitting this, but I don't much care for the taste of fresh garden carrots.
They are soooo strongly flavored. I find them overpowering after a lifetime of eating mild (anemic) grocery store (old) carrots. However, the garden has been producing its fair share of carrots, so something had to be done. This recipe was the answer.
After scrubbing the carrots (garden carrots should be scrubbed rather than peeled), I cut them into pretty little ovals.
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Garden carrots cut into nice ovals |
Next, I prepared the braise in a sauce pan, added the carrots, and cooked until delicious.
Finally, I mixed up a compound butter with herbs from the garden and mustard. We spread that on toasted French bread to enjoy with our meal. All around it was a lovely meal for a rainy day.
***Disclaimer: All representations of Deborah Madison's recipes on this blog are intentionally incomplete. Do not attempt to copy a recipe from this blog. I have intentionally left out critical steps and ingredients to avoid copyright infringement. All recipes should only be attempted when referencing the book in which they were originally published.***